We want to clean that up and make sure that it's smooth, there are no burs. I'm glad I searched to verify how to put this valve on. Check for leaks around the base of the tank and around the water shut off valve. Now my valve is on, the water id shut off, I am going to go downstairs and turn on the main valve. I was handed Plumber's Grease and assume it is the same thing. Take out water line that goes from the toilet to the valve.
Ensure that the tape is wrapped in a clockwise direction. If your old valve is threaded, or screws directly onto the pipe, you can simply twist it off and replace it with a new valve. Cut the supply line, leaving enough room between the escutcheon plate and the cut to allow installation of the fitting. Fix-It Friday is an exclusive Women You Should Know® editorial series authored by seasoned veteran of home improvement, Lisa So I am replacing my bathroom sink. The valve assembly includes the float and a shut-off mechanism to stop the flow of water. Smooth the taped pipe ending with your fingers.
Well mine is hand tight and water is slowly seeping out from the tank and out under the Locknut. Reconnect supply lines to the new valve. If you see any seepage, tighten the connection a little more. If the pipes are old, corroded, or soldered onto the valve, cut each pipe just past where they connect to the valve. Cleaned the pipe with steel wool and slid on the nut and compression ring. Once you beat this, your diy confidence will be justifiably stronger.
On some models the float is adjusted using a threaded screw sitting next to the float. With the compression nut loosened, simply pull the old valve off of the pipe. Parts The parts needed to replace the water supply assembly are a water supply valve, or angle stop, and a toilet tank hose, both of which can be purchased at hardware or plumbing supply stores. Most houses, condos, or apartments will have this type of supply line since they install so quickly and easily. And once that's attached tightly, we're going to attach our supply line to the toilet fill valve. Adjust the water level appropriately for your toilet.
Then soak the threads with a good penetrating oil. If pulling the escutcheon out continues the same color allowing for dirt all the way to the wall, my confidence increases that that's what you have. I am a 53 yr old woman and thanks to your awesome, easy to understand, step by step video, I am currently incredibly proud of myself for replacing my fill valve on my own. So we're going to pop out our center washer here, so that we can slide the outside ring on to shaft and we're going to slide this into our hole in the tank. If the plastic nut connection end is leaking, slightly hand tighten the plastic nut until the leak ceases. Determination, penetrating oil and heat can all help, but sometimes all that happens is the pipe snaps off. In fact, your local building codes may require this type of valve.
I think that must be true. Make sure the faucets are turned off, then turn on the water supply. Cut slowly and carefully to avoid warping the pipe. Together, they cited information from. For reference, the old valve was not leaking and the male threads were not taped.
Then place the new compression sleeve over the end of the pipe. Add your question to the comments section below or email it to. A new tool I have been using to remove the back nut and ferrule. This valve is a knob that turns the water to the toilet off. Affix a pipe wrench to the flat sides where the valve body connects to the pipe.
After taping the threads, screw the new valve onto the pipe. With the compression nut loosened, simply pull the old valve off of the pipe. Then I want to take my channel-lock and I'm going to take the nut off that holds the fill valve in. Ensure that you remove the mineral deposits that often coat the washers. Rotate the nut clockwise by hand, then use a pipe wrench to finish tightening it. Use a flat headed screwdriver for edging out the washers. Loosen or cut the pipes on each side of a 2-way valve.
Reattach supply lines, if necessary. This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. In a compression connection, the valve screws into a hexagonal nut that fits around the supply line. The tighter you make the nut, the more it compresses the ferrule into the pipe, the harder it is to remove it. Too uniform and shiny to my eye. Call a professional if your supply line is old or corroded. I don't actually think it's all that obvious from the picture just what you have; and if I had to guess, I say something chrome plated, not solder over copper, unless it was soldered within the last week.