Take a look at the wiring configuration of the light switch. In our case, there are two black wires connected to the switch, as well as a bare copper wire, which is the ground wire. An outlet switch combo device is handy when you need both but you only have one box available. With this arrangement, the source to the light can be controlled at the combo, but the light will stay on if the gfci trips due to a short. This will power up the receptacle only, and will do nothing for the light.
I'm really confused what the original electrician did here. What's the correct wiring please? Above: An example of a pigtail, where two connections merge into one. The other is always-hot from the switch. The wire gauge depends on the breaker size. Also keep in mind that no matter how you have the switch wired up, the white neutral wires will always be connected to the silver screw. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Next, connect the white neutral wire the pigtail connection to the silver screw. This electrical question came from: Scott, a Homeowner from Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Some switches will have slots that you can slide a straight wire into and tighten it down with the screw, which is definitely easier than wrapping the hooked wire around the screw. Smart switches Talking something like Insteon. We use a receptacle here but any device such as a switch, timer, etc. The switch can control your lights, the switch can control the outlet, or the switch can control both your lights and the outlet.
In some wiring configurations, a white wire may be used to switch power. Again, the ground wire always gets connected to the green screw, no matter the wiring scenario. The other wire from the dimmer is spliced to the black cable wire which runs on to the hot terminal on the light. At the light, it connects to the neutral terminal. Tools Required: Basic Electricians Pouch Hand Tools and Voltage Tester. Wiring with the load on top got a green light, but it won't reset and light won't turn on. Just as the receptacle that you replaced will have the tab on the hot side removed, here we have to remove the tab on the device as well.
Two-wire cable runs from the combo to the light fixture and the switch output is connected to the black wire running to the fixture hot terminal. By code, the number of conductors allowed in a box are limited depending on box size and wire gauge. As you can see, connecting a receptacle to the light would see the receptacle only hot when the light switch is on. Notice: Installing additional outlet wiring should be done through the local building authority, according to applicable local and national electrical codes, with a permit, and have required inspections. Serge This electrical wiring question came from: Serge, a Homeowner from Montreal, Canada. Instead of plugging the light in and out every time you want to control the light, this will allow you to keep it plugged in and use the switch for control.
Pilot light combo switches come in a few configurations and types, where the pilot light will be a neon light which is basically wired within the Load side of the switch, or an incandescent pilot light which requires a separate neutral wire. The configuration shown pic 3 is closest to operational, but still won't reset. The source neutral is spliced in the switch box with the white cable wire running to the neutral on the receptacle. The neutral wire from the source is spliced to the white cable wire and continues on to the light. The neutral from the source is spliced through to the switch box using the white wire and in this diagram, the white wire is capped with a wire nut.
Next, take your Phillips-head screwdriver or power drill and remove the two screws that hold the light switch onto the junction box. Twist the end of the incoming hot wire around an end of both 5-inch extra lengths. If you wanted the outlet on the switch to remain on while all of the other outlets turned off, you would simply reverse the black wire connections. Cut the neutral wire 10 inches from the incoming raceway. In many instances when a cable has a white wire which has voltage and the black does not, then the white and black wire are being used for the switching process. The source is at the device and the hot is connected directly to one of the hot terminals, it doesn't matter which one.
Here is what you would have to do if possible, change out the 2-wire to 3-wire cable from switch to light. The white wire is marked black on both ends to identify it as hot. So you get a smart-switch module, that connects to always-hot and neutral. A rheostat, or dimmer, makes it possible to vary the current flowing to a light fixture thereby varying the intensity of the light. We switch hot, so wire-nut the switched-hot from the lamp to either one of the black wires from the switch. Like the split receptacles previously mentioned, these devices make use of a removable connector between the two hot terminals to divide it when needed.
Once that is done, victory is defined by the light working off the switch. I believe that the first wire comes from the vanity light and the second comes from the fan. Twist the strands together between a thumb and finger at the ends of all the individual stripped exposures. The switch controls a light and the receptacle half of the combo device is always hot. The source neutral wire is spliced to the white cable wire which continues on to the neutral terminal on the light. All good answers, the light is fed power from the ceiling so you can't legally install a receptacle at the switch location, without running new wire. This device can be used for ground fault protection near water sources such as in a kitchen or bathroom where space is a minimum and both devices are needed.
A device like this should only be used with an incandescent light fixture and not with a ceiling fan or other motor. The white wire is marked black on both ends to identify it as hot. Name required Email will not be published required Website By submitting you agree to our. However it is an example of how we can have the switch and receptacle operating independently from one another on different circuits. I finally ended up putting in 2 units. The switch on the combo controls the exhaust fan and the outlet is not switched. The white wire is marked black on both ends to identify it as hot.